more to life...: October 2007

For a long time, I have heard that Western Catchment in Ooty is one great place to visit, but I never had a chance to go there. I should say that I was pleasantly surprised when I came to know Thenmurgakani had trekked in those hills more than 100 times (Yes, 100 times). Thenmurgakani is my colleague and my respect for him grows day by day for his knowledge on those hills and nature. A majority of the information I have given here is gleaned from him. Though we could not make it to Western Catchment this time, we made to Upper Bhavani which is also equally good. We booked a Tata Indica and left on Sep 15th morning. You need not touch Ooty to go to Upper Bhavani, you can take a detour at Karamadai and go via Manjur, you will save a lot of time and fuel.

After Kunda but before Mulli, you can see Geddai Powerhouse (2852 above MSL) or Canada Powerhouse II, which has 5 turbines. There is a winch still operating there. Mullum Malarum, a film by Mahendran was shot here, with Rajnikanth being the winch operator in that movie. You can find a memorial there in memory of the 100 people who died in a landslide there in 1993. The surge shaft here is the highest in Kunda project. Kunda is the center point of all the hydel powerstations in Nilgiris. Kunda project was operationalized by Jawaharlal Nehru in 1961.

Before starting the Kunda project, Bhavani Amman temple was built to bring good luck and the project was completed successfully in 1964. Around 2-3 km after the temple, towards the end of the road, you can see a tunnel valve opening which is opened by a motor. From this tunnel, water from Upper Bhavani reservoir flows down to Powerhouse 5 completely through a tunnel constructed underground. Interestingly enough, the entire projected is consctured in a way that water from one powerhouse to another flows entirely underground via a network of tunnels so that evaporation is minimized.

Upper Bhavani is the highest reservoir in the whole project at 7470 feet above MSL with a capacity of 3022 mcft.

I should say this is one of my most memorable trips, the place is so serene and breath taking. The weather on that day was particularly good with a small drizzle throughout. Roads till Manjur are good, after that expect a very bumpy ride. Going in a small vehicle is advisable. You can pack you lunch at Manjur, there are no hotels or shops after that.

I asked Thenmurgakani to recollect some of his thoughts on his various trips here. This is from his own words: "I have come here more than 100 times by trek from 1990 to 1996. Trekked to various places including Bison's swamp, Bhavani Amman temple, Sispara pass, Bangi Thapal, Bangihalla dam, Madippu Malai, Western catchment I, II, and III, Kolaripetta tower, and Weir dam; nearly more than 200 sq km. I have visited these areas in all seasons from January to December. Western Catchment areas receive rainfall of about 1000 mm in a couple of days regularly. Temperatures plummet to subzero in winter forming ice sheets over water surfaces. Kora Kunda is the coldest place in this region where -4 degrees is usual for long periods of time. Such a rainfall is regularly being received only because the ecology is very much guarded in these places. Over the past 17 years, though much degradation of nature has taken place in all other areas of Nilgiris, the natural sholas and forests beyond Upper Bhavani have been preserved without a bit of damage, maintaining the ecosystem intact. The various flora and fauna are still flourishing thanks to the actions of forest and EB officials; however, it remains to be seen how long this can be sustained. Many a scientist from a number of countries still visit the Mukurthi Sanctuary for various biological projects including obtaining the purest water samples available on earth. Though Mukurthi sanctuary in Upper Bhavani area is serene and beautiful and litter-free, other parts of the sanctuary fall woefully short of cleanliness including the Western Catchment II and III areas, the main damagers being the film shooting crew who are insensitive to the fragile nature of the Western Ghats. One cannot even see a single kilometer free of plastic garbage in these areas. Unlesss these excesses are stopped, one could not save the beauty of those hills." Sensible words.

Route: Coimbatore = Karamadai = Velliangadu = Barali = Mulli = Geddai = Annamalai = Kunda = Manjur = Thaisolai = Kora Kunda = Ramaiah road (Powerhouse 5 road) junction = Bhavani Amman temple. From junction: Right = Bhavani Amman temple; Straight = Upper Bhavani dam.

Distance: Around 200 km.

Expenses: Rs. 2000/= for vehicle from Coimbatore plus extra expenses for food, snacks, etc.

You can leave Coimbatore by 7 a.m. and be back by 12 midnight.

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